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Friday, January 10, 2014

The temple of the Lady of the Sea (Chùa Bà Thiên Hậu)

I'm not a buddhist, although we have a Buddha statue at home…and I rarely go to the pagoda, temple or shrine to pray, unless I have to accompany my friends. Why I'm writing about this temple ?
There  are some reasons: my very first time was...quite long in the past when I just started my corporate career and during our New Year some of my old colleagues asked me to join them to visit this Temple. My first impression at that time : so crowded, so smoky, it was very hard to breath, tears in my eyes...I did pray anyway but can't recall what I prayed. The second time to this Temple when I accompanied two friends visiting Saigon, one from Taiwan, another from Malaysia. They told me…even in Taiwan they hardly find the temple like this - all new, so this place is unique. But another reason could be most important to me is I'm really fascinated by the porcelain diorama on the roof of this temple. I wish to have a better look at them.

            Look at the figurine's clothes, finely detailed ornament and their gesture…just amazing!

This temple is one of the popular tourist spots…but as far as I guess we still have some other places - old and probably also unique but maybe a bit far, not like this one, right in the heart of Chinatown.
This is the oldest Chinese temple in Saigon, built in 1760 by a group of Kuang-chou immigrants, the temple has been renovated many times in the past. Here we call "Chùa Bà Thiên Hậu " or simply "Chùa Bà" in brief, literally means Pagoda of the Lady of the Sea as the main altar is dedicated to a legendary character, named Mi Chau, born in 1044 in Fukien (China).

                 The main altar s dedicated to the Lady of the Sea "Bà Thiên Hậu"  

There is some legend circulated about this Lady of the Sea, back to 11th century, at the very young age with the magical power she got from Goddess, her spirit tried to save life of her father and two brothers in the turbulent sea while her body was staying at home, but she failed to keep her father alive and later the fishermen in her hometown considered her a Spiritual Protector for them, before the trip to the big seas.

          In the morning you may find more tourists than the locals, group by group they come here...

             ...to take the photos, to learn the story and to burn the spiral incense for luck…as I did later. 

As I said I was always impressed by the porcelain figurines that decorate the roof. These figurines were produced by two most famous factories in China in early 1900s. To be honest I have no idea about these figurines, their related stories or legends, but look at the details we may find many interesting things.

           like the wedding custom and clothes in China in late 19th century...

                  or these famous characters from "Travel to the West" (Tây Du Ký)…

           or these demons probably related to the story about the Justice, the Hell...

            or this battle of the General Guan Yu from the famous epic story "Three Kingdoms"...   

                 or simply the scene from the routine life in China at that time...

               to the royal life...
       
           or these Eight Immortals from Chinese mythology (Bát Tiên) that I knew from my childhood. 


Some figurines have been damaged after over 100 years up on that roof, someone already tried to fix but very poorly as you see in the picture, I don't know - with many sponsors, maybe the authorities would look at this issue more seriously and to find the better way as all this diorama in need of better restoration, not only this unique porcelain works, but also the temple as it's a part of Saigon's development history.


The locals keep coming here to pray, to bring the offerings, those pink leaflets that I found on the wall
dedicating to the sponsors…so hopefully it helps to maintain this Temple, its access always in good conditions despite the cruel time.


In this Temple you will find some display of precious items, like the huge burners behind, dated back to 18th century or those items in the glass display as below.  


I notice in front of the Temple, across the street there is a small garden, I don't know is there any connection back to hundred years ago…but now the garden with fence seemed abandoned without attention, street vendors take the space to sell either drinks or these birds for 'Give Life", i.e Phóng Sinh (?!) a tradition that has been criticised by the media and public for long as it's cruel to these birds.


From now to our New Year which is just 20 days away is busy time for all Temples in Saigon, especially this Temple as it's considered one of the most sacred places for many Chinese-Vietnamese or Vietnamese during the New Year. The 28th of January and 23rd of March (both dates by Lunar calendar) are special for this Temple: very crowded with a lot of activities: pray, offerings, lion dance... I may curiously come here to witness the process.

         The Temple of the Lady of the Sea (Chùa Bà) at 710 Nguyen Trai, district 5, Saigon.
 

2 comments:

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  2. Thank you for your post , it helps me alot with my job .

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