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Wednesday, October 09, 2013

Bến Thành market

Bến Thành market is very famous, it's like the historic image, the symbol of Sài Gòn, but to be honest, it's not in my heart. Probably because we have so many markets in Saigon, traditional ones, right in our neighbourhood, where we always go early in the morning to buy some stuff either for breakfast or for a family lunch. And we do that since our childhood. Bến Thành is far away for me.

                 One of the most popular symbols of Sài Gòn - Bến Thành market

I'm living at the entrance to district 5, it takes me less than 10' to go to Bến Thành market, but it seems still far, to go there...and I realised for us, the market should be close to where we live. That's why for Vietnamese, when we buy a house, we check is there any market, school, hospital near by...to live very close to the market is surely a nightmare: the smell, the noise...but it could be a big business opportunity for someone.

           The fish section in Bến Thành market.

            All kinds of crab meat, only at Bến Thành market. Expensive! 

               A young fish sale man is cleaning moulting crabs, one of the favourite items for chefs.

Interesting to know that many people here have in their mind - some market - for the rich and some, for the poor or not-rich-yet. I first heard about this "rumour - concept" few years ago, when I passed by a small market in Chinatown, I was told that market for the rich. If so, Bến Thành should be for the very rich then! True, everything in Bến Thành is quite expensive: from the right to own a place in there, the rent fee...to the all things selling there.

                The butchery section, I thought everything is here, but I didn't see the pig's head! 

            Veggies section  

             Fermented fish - typical speciality  from Mekong Delta.

             My favourite mắm - another kind of fermented fish mixed with papaya, sweet and tasty.

          Most visible booths in Bến Thành, and could be most expensive: dried shrimp, bird's nest...

             Tropical fruits always attract tourist's curiosity, esp. those from the West. 

Bến Thành market has the best location, right in the heart of Sài Gòn, and that makes this place one of the most attractive spots for tourists and also explains why one tiny space in this market could be worth hundreds thousands US dollars...

            Nearly hundred eating stalls, most famous dishes from different areas of Vietnam are here...          

The food in Bến Thành market are not the best in town, but I have to say, the collection is very good. I can find so many things: from very ordinary lunch meal (rice served with various family meals), to all kinds of noodles, spring rolls, fresh rolls...or those specialities from Central or trendy snails that we usually eat later in the day.

             A tourist is curiously checking a plate with all sauces...

I would love to have a chance or good "co-eater" so we can try all foods here and to review it , it should be a big fun as looking at some stalls, difficult for me to say which one is good, which one - not. I did try bún suông (noodles with worm!) and bánh bèo, they are over average, esp. bánh bèo are so affordable at this place. But if you have a chance, you may try a traditional cake "9 layers of cloud"- one of my favourite sweets, many people even buy and bring it back home to Europe.  

     A tiny stall where selling different kinds of traditional cakes, you better try "9 layers of cloud" cake! 

              This sweet - gooseberry stirred in sugar - a childhood's favourite for many Saigonese...

            or this traditional donuts - covers with caramel and sesame, filled with green mung bean. 

A very good thing in this market while walking around, you can find some simple street sweets sold by some vendors, they don't have any space or stall, just with a tiny wooden chair, they are sitting here and there, you have to catch them as the stuff they sell is very good and cheap as those donuts and sticky sweet cake in the above photo. 

            Spices stall - quite unique as they are selling some spices that out of my imagination... 

      or coffee and tea stall, you should try those flower-bud tea, they are blooming in water, very nice!

           I never tried these weasel, luwak coffee, even coffee vanilla or expresso, quite interesting!

          talking about coffee in Vietnam, don't forget this popular coffee filter...in different sizes. 

But along with food, what make Bến Thành very popular is all kind of handicraft, clothes, shoes...they are so colourful, very-eye catching but you need to know few things: do a good quality checking before you buy and try to bargain, it could be a very memorable experience.
These days due the tourist booming, the owners hire students to look after the customers, so I must say sale people can speak in Japanese, English, Mandarin, Malay, Korean...so try your luck to get the best deal!

                Traditional female shoes, I bought few pairs for my mother, but she didn't like it!  

            Handmade handbags made of special fabric from highland area, we call "thổ cẩm" or...

         those cute tiny bags could be a good gift from Vietnam. 

          A wind chime with Vietnamese hats...wonder about the sound! 

                Here you can find many things, from these bracelets...

             to ready-to-wear clothes with embroidery....


                or big collection of traditional clothes for your kids, I even saw some hanbok for kids...

            or just select a piece of fabric with beautiful handmade embroidery for your dress. 

                  From these small lacquer statuettes....
     
               to these funny stuff, it could be a small box, I guess...

          These dolls remind me those Korean or Japanese dolls in their traditional dress, I wish more varieties...

              The cyclo used to be my first choice gift to friends... 

                  quite eye-catching decoration fans 

I have a habit during my travel - I always love to visit the local market wherever I go...I feel going there I know more about the tradition, the cuisine, the lifestyle of people living in that area...but I have to say Bến Thành market is quite unique, it's not like a "chợ" as we say in Vietnamese, it's rather a combination of "traditional market place" with "modern mall" where you can find some things that you probably never see in the old market. I found a watch shop and a perfume shop - right in the middle. It could be alright but to me it's a bit funny! There is a corner where they do the manicure, pedicure...ok if in Bangkok I may see even a food massage parlour!

                Just wonder these watch shop or perfume stall - do they feel lonely among the other stalls?  

                The owner prepares his perfume stall for the morning sale. 


My morning visit to Bến Thành market ends at the side of Lê Thánh Tôn street where you see a lot of flowers boutiques and fruit stalls. They are quite expensive compared to the other places in the city, but I have to admit many things here are better in quality, so that's the price we have to pay.
This market is hundred year old, I don't know in the next few years, when on the opposite side a huge skyscraper will be launched, it will definitely change the landscape around the market. How to keep the tradition, the historic site but at the same time to improve the infrastructure, the comfort...it's surely a headache for the authorities. I really wish to witness that change for Bến Thành in my lifetime.


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