Despite the long walk, carrying luggage around the old town, up and down the hill, to find the hotel, but I had to admit my hotel choice in Carcassonne was one of the best in my entire journey. Newly renovated, spacious room with a shining bathtub that I kept using...And hotel's location was perfect, a bit far from the train station, but right in front of the Cité de Carcassonne - the exceptional fortified medieval city in South of France, the largest in Europe.
It was interesting to know how the name "Carcassonne" was legendarily created, it said that Princess Carcas saw how Charlemagne (Roman Emperor) lift the 5-year siege of her town, she ordered to ring the bells. People then cried "Carcas sonne" (i.e Carcas rings) and this was how the town got its name.
This citadel located on a hill on the right bank of the river Aude, with 2500 years of history, this fortress played a very important military role in France's history as a frontier between France and other kingdoms. It was more prosperous town compared to the lower town, outside the fortress, but for certain reasons the fortified city became poor, quiet when most of inhabitants abandoned it since 17th century.
At the beginning of the 19th century, the city remained a fortress with half-ruined walls on an isolated hill which was difficult to reach. In 1849 The French government decided the fortress should be demolished but the decision was strongly opposed by the locals. Later some eminent archeologist and historian led a campaign to preserve the fortified town as a historical monument.
Under the direction of Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, a famous architect for his restored medieval buildings, the restoration works of the Cité de Carcassonne began in 1846. It was one of the most extensive restoration projects at that time and continued for another 80 years.
Based on some visible remains, material traces, sometimes these indications were very tenuous but Viollet-le-Duc greatly managed to restore not only the fortress but also the castle, the basilica inside the fortified town.
Actually his works has been criticised due to some differences between the architect's favourite restoration style and the original architectural style in the region, like the typical northern conical roofing contrasting with the original flat roof in this southern area.
However, despite these errors, the restoration projects led by Viollet-le-Duc were considered as an excellent work and loyal to the original medieval Cité de Carcassonne.
The ramparts with the towers up on a hill, 150m high over the lower town downhill.
And here's a cookies shop...
In order to get a picture of the fortified city at night from the lower town, I had to walk nearly half way back to the train station, it was almost midnight, very quiet, most shops were closed, except some bars, ice-cream boutiques, very few traffic...
I stayed in Carcassonne only for one night, no enough time to explore the huge fortified town, I was able to walk only ⅓ of the ramparts, including the quick visit to the castle. I didn't see the other gates, especially the one by the river Aude. The local authorities also concerned that many visitors didn't extend their stay inside the Cité, as most of visitors consider a visit to Carcassonne as an short excursion, not a holiday place. The local authorities are working on how to create the events to keep visitors to stay longer, to spend more. But for me, I can't wait to be heading to another town whose the song I knew since my childhood - Avignon.
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